The modern beef cuts

Since the time we sold our meat store the little “secrets” we had about those “special” cuts we used to take home for our meals are now common knowledge as you will realize when you read on.

No, owning a meat market does not mean that you get to eat steaks every night, though I must say, as our menu was many times dictated by “what had to go” in the counter and with this steaks and more expensive cuts were often used in our home cooking, even if we had to cut them up and use them for dishes which could be done with cheaper cuts and still be tender and delicious.

“What had to go” are those packages in the meat department marked as “Manager’s Specials”. The cuts which start to loose their color and are not quite red enough to command a full price anymore and nowadays, as everything in the counter has to have an expiration date, it also includes the cuts getting close to be “outdated”.

The expenses to run and operate a meat store or meat department used to be a lot lower, but with increases in rent, utility costs, product cost and even the cost to administer all the new rules and regulations deemed necessary by our government, they went up quite a bit. (I did not include labor cost here as I know from friends, who are not retired yet, that usually with a raise – an increase in productivity is generally expected). This shifted the amount you have to get for each cut of beef from the most tender rib and loin cuts to all the cuts you get out of a side of beef.

Yes, we always had flank steaks, skirt steaks, shanks and short ribs, but those were the “other” cuts from an animal and sold years ago at a lot cheaper price. Nothing changed in the pieces of meat you get from a side, but some cuts formerly used strictly in cube steaks, stew meat and hamburger are nowadays promoted all the way up to the rank of “Steak”.

The Beef Plate

Let’s start with the skirt steak, which is a thin piece of meat included in the blade. In my early days in the meat business we didn’t think twice to add it to the meat to be ground for hamburger. The popularity of the Tex-Mex cooking made this, when marinated, the favorite cut for Fajitas and this in turn raised the price. The blade also contains bone in and boneless short ribs, which used to be boiled for soups but with proper preparation are now also popular on the BBQ.

The Beef Loin

The sirloin, the biggest section of the highlighted part in the beef loin picture, used to be cut strictly as a bone in steak, you will have a hard time finding them in any meat counter nowadays.

Then we removed the bone and cut the top part as top sirloin steaks or roast and the round part located below the bone into Filet Mignon. The left over piece of meat on the whole sirloin was strictly used for stew or cube steak but now you will find them merchandised as Tri-Tip roast or steak for greater profitability.

The Beef Chuck

The other major change when cutting a side of beef is in the chuck section.

Round bone roasts and English cuts with bones seem to be a thing of the past and in many cases also the regular bone-in chuck roast. Most of the cuts today are boneless and by taking the bone out, this section of meat is divided into different parts. Here you will find quite a few of the cuts which were promoted to steak status. We include the shoulder top blade steak (flat iron steak) and roast, the ranch steak from the shoulder center and also the shoulder petite tender. If I think back we called the last cut the “Scottie” or “Scotch tender” but this name is probably not political correct anymore as it includes a nationality. This was one of the pieces of meat, when available, often taken home by the butchers.

From Bone-in to boneless cuts:

Why did this come to pass? Live cattle used to be trucked all over the country, to make this more efficient the big slaughter houses were built close to the feed lots. Now you could ship a lot more meat on one truck. So we received our meats as sides of beef with each of them cut in half to get the weight of the pieces below the 180 pound mark for easier handling. When cutting these pieces for the counter you lost about 1/3 of the weight in fat and bones.

So, with the improvements in vacuum packing, the meat cuts were processed at the slaughter house level and the thousands and thousands of pounds of bones and fat did not have to be shipped to the meat stores. Next we went into more and more boneless cuts eliminating the transportation of more of the fat and bones.

A side effect of this is that the time is over when you asked the butcher for an extra bone for your soup or even for your dog to chew on and they just threw one in for free, now the few marrow bones the meat department gets their hands on are sold for a pretty high price and for the big knuckle bones for your dog – you have to go to one of the pet care stores and really shell out some money.

Nowadays the meat department receives everything cut down to a manageable size, usually under 20 pounds per piece, to take it one step further, it is already the trend to cut the meat into individual steaks and roasts at the meat processors and ship vacuum sealed packages which are only priced and placed in the counter at supermarket level eliminating a large part of the meat department.

I always said if we do not watch out and keep producing at work we might be replace by a button, this seems to be the case of your local meat cutter, even if he/she are producing.

Again, see the link in the previous Beef Basics article for a printable chart of the Retail Beef Cuts published by the Cattleman’s Beef Board.

 

 

Beef basics

To understand what piece of meat we should buy we have to analyze the “what is what” and the “where does it come from” first. So here we break down a side of beef and show you the most desired parts of it. This is only an overview and I will write more in depth about each part in future posts.

The Beef Chuck

It is a fact that the more a muscle is used the tougher it gets. So if we look at this a little closer we find that a steer uses the front quarter the most for grazing and walking and with that “the Beef Chuck” includes the least tender meat with the exception of the even tougher beef shank, with is more sinewy. So we used to take any of these cuts and cooked it for a long period of time usually with some liquid (water) added . Here we get our cuts for pot roasts, stews and soups .

The Beef Round

Let’s jump to the back of the beef side next, “the Round”:

As these muscles are only used for walking this section of the steer includes the next “not-as-tender” pieces of meat. The round steak, rump roast and sirloin tip are part of this. These cuts are usually already tender enough to be used as roast beef.

To the middle we go, this includes “the Beef Loin” and “the Beef Rib”. The job of this part is basically just to hold the front and back together.

The Beef Rib

The Beef Rib has, in my humble opinion, the most delicious cuts, starting with the prime rib, rib eye roast, rib steak, rib eye steak, which used to be also called Delmonico steak, and the back ribs. Even the back ribs, if prepared right, can be a finger licking good experience.

 

The Beef Loin

In the Beef Loin we find the sirloin steaks, T-bone and porterhouse and if you remove the bone this part gives you the top sirloin, New York strip and the beef tenderloin. The tenderloin is “the least” used muscle and therefore the most tender. Which kind of proves my statement above.

 

All the other parts include, besides  stew meat and hamburger, meat for cube steaks, short ribs, flank steak, skirt steaks and also the brisket.

All the different sections will be worked on more in depth in future posts!

A nice PDF chart of the Retail Beef Cuts can be downloaded from the Cattleman’s Beef Board

 

Sauerkraut can cause chaos!

I have to share this one:

It happened on the Autobahn by Friedberg, north of Frankfurt and was all over the news. Click here for the original report as published by Reuters.

Frozen Sauerkraut causes chaos on Autobahn

Tuesday morning on February 7, 2012 a truck involved in an accident spilled hundreds of Sauerkraut packages all over the A5 Autobahn north of Frankfurt.

The deep freeze, Germany is in for over a week, caused the sauerkraut to freeze to the roadway in minutes, causing miles of traffic back ups and completely shut down this autobahn section for hours until they could scrape all of it away.

What a way to start your day, being stopped by sauerkraut on the way to work during the rush hour! Let’s hope your boss was stuck in it too, as he/she never would believe this excuse. Or imagine the clean up guy:”Honey, I have to hang up and start scraping sauerkraut, should I bring some home for dinner?”

About our Recipe section

Interested in our “Recipes” section?

Schnitzel and potato salad

Together with this blog I also edit the Bavaria 4 U blog, which is all about that beautiful region of Germany.
This blog also includes a section about the food there.

Some of the articles in it might be of interest to those of you who want to know a little more about the “Bayrische Küche” (Bavarian kitchen).
We publish a few recipes and add some background, anecdotes, history and also instructions about them.
So make sure to go there and look around, you might like it.

Imperial Castle Nuremberg

Here is the link again

Bavaria 4 U

This blog and the links in it might also be interesting for those of you planning to visit there one of these days.

We highly recommend to add a trip there to your bucket list.

 

 

Jaccard, the ultimate meat tenderizer

Jaccard, the ultimate meat tenderizer

Many years ago, I worked at a meat wholesaler where we had a commercial Jaccard machine, with multiple rows of blades. It was used on lower grade beef rib eyes, they were punched (jaccarded) and marinated, then shaped and frozen and later sliced on a saw while frozen then wrapped to sell. I remember a couple of restaurant buffet steakhouse chains, who served that kind of quality, cheap steak but still tasty from the marinade and tender enough through the use of the machine and a papain based tenderizer.

When we started our store we were the first meat market in the area to offer beef shish-kebobs and we used meat from USDA Choice Beef Sirloin Tips for it. In general this meat was tender enough for the BBQ and as we put a slice of bacon next to the beef the flavor was excellent. But once in a great while we did get a complaint about a piece of meat being chewy. So I remembered the machine from the previous place and looked into it’s cost. We could not afford it! But the salesman at our butcher supply mentioned a hand held model which was affordable. Once we “jaccarded” our beef, our shis-kebob sales went through the roof and we never again had any complaints about tough meat. I remember one year the day before Fourth of July we started with over 100 kebobs made ahead. We had four of us sticking more and one person who just cleaned and cut onions and green peppers. We sold them as fast as we could make them and had customers standing in line waiting for them. “How many?’ “4” “here, thank you”, “How many?’ “3” “here, thank you”, “How many?’ “6” “here, thank you”, “How many?’ “2” “here, thank you”, this went on all day.

Our YouTube video shows you this great gadget as I “jaccard” a Pork sirloin roast for pork kebobs or city chicken.

We gave a few of them as presents to our friends and we know they all use it regularly and would not want to be without it anymore.

We saw this machine quite often with one row of blades, they are usually a bit cheaper but we recommend the one with three rows as this makes the job a lot easier.

 

If you are interested in buying one of them, the Amazon.com link here has a decent price for a three row Jaccard Tenderizer and clicking on this link to buy it will earn us a small commission which helps to keep this site going.

We rate this machine, besides our knives and cutting boards, as one of the biggest money saver, “must-have” gadgets in our kitchen.

Jaccard update

 

Beef, the Interactive Meat Case

Interactive Meat Case, the cuts of beef in the meat counter.

This will be a very informative but extremely short post, as I will only publish a link here.

The National Cattlemen’s Beef Association has an extensive website at ‘beefiswhatsfordinner.com‘ about the subject beef. There you will find the “Interactive Meat Case” with listings of all the different cuts of beef and their alternate names which you might see in the meat department of your butcher shop or grocery store.

These sites are courtesy of the Beef Checkoff

With websites like their’s, there is no need to reinvent the wheel and list all the cuts. As they are, in my opinion, the authority on beef I might direct you to their site again in future posts for other information.

To be Choice or not to be

As I am getting older and not in the meat store anymore, I actually enjoy what we used to call a bus drivers holiday. For those of you not familiar with this expression, that is when a city bus driver on his day off goes for a ride and is driven around on the bus he usually drives. Yes, I really love to go shopping and roaming around the grocery stores and meat markets.

This brings me to some of my resent observations.

At one of the stores the meat tags in the counter were marked with USDA and the subtitle on the counter claimed that their beef was “Premium”. Yes, they were not lying with the USDA as all meat has to be inspected as stated in my previous post, but I never ever heard of a grade “Premium” especially as the meat looked like ‘USDA Select’ quality. So if the label does not state USDA combined with Choice or Prime, which would be two words right next to each other as ‘USDA Choice’ or ‘USDA Prime’, it might be that they try to convince you that their meat is a higher grade and with that more expensive, than what they actually sell you.

Next observation at an independent supermarket: The printed sale sign actually stated “USDA Choice” on whole beef tenderloins and the price was a heck of a deal. Looking through the about 15 tenders they had in the counter, there were only 6 of the larger ones stamped “USDA Select” by the meat processor and the rest had no grade stamp whatsoever and had the feel of a wet noodle, meaning no quality behind it at all and I would guess they were what we used to call in the industry a “cow tender” which puts them somewhere in the commercial grades. I will admit that the price, if you selected one of the “select” tenders, was very decent and I have never had a ‘USDA Select’ tenderloin which was not tender and as they are from steers or heifers they even had an excellent taste, but they were still miss-advertised. Now on the other hand those “wet noodle” one’s I used to come across sometimes actually had a slight taste like liver.

Staying on the subject of beef let’s also mention the corned beef brisket written about in a previous article and please check for the amount of water added as stated on the label.

The next article will be about the “new” old cuts they found .

 

The Meat Inspection and Grading

Some of the information in this article comes from the official USDA government web site
at http://www.fsis.usda.gov/factsheets/inspection_&_grading/index.asp

USDA inspection is mandatory on all meats which are slaughtered in federal plants and are sold in your meat market(s), even state inspection programs are monitored by the USDA and must at least come up to their standards.

I remember when Michigan still had their own wholesale inspection program and the guidelines for “Made in Michigan” was a lot higher than the federal one’s at that time. If my memory serves me right, out-of-state federal inspected processors were required to actually produce products to these standards, if they wanted to “import” them to Michigan. The quality standard of Michigan made Hot Dogs come to mind here! I cannot find any reference if this ruling is still in effect today.
There are three different inspection marks used,

one for raw meat, you will find this stamp on the whole pieces of meat, which are delivered to your meat market or grocery store.

one for raw poultry and

 one for processed meats, this one you will see on all the packaged items which fall under these guidelines, like hot dogs, luncheon meats and even the items which contain more than 3% meat product. So a canned meaty chili or even a glass of spaghetti sauce of a higher than 3% meat content has to be USDA inspected and will have this stamp on the label. When we had our store we cooked and sold nice quantities of Bavarian style Sauerkraut and were thinking of wholesaling it to other stores, the set back was that we added more than the allowed amount of diced bacon to it and would have to go into the federal inspection program, which was not worth the cost and extra headaches at that time.

All these stamps above include the establishment number. This number is assigned by the federal government and is good only for one location. If a large processor has multiple plants, each one has a separate number and can easily be identified.
Let’s say you bought a “private label” ring bologna from a grocery chain, by looking at the stamp you can tell which food processor actually made this product for them!
A published list of these numbers can easily be found on the Internet.
Voluntary Federal inspection for animals not covered under mandatory inspection (i.e., buffalo, rabbit, reindeer, elk, deer, antelope) is handled under the Agricultural Marketing Act.
As meat inspection is mandatory here in the USA, any meat that is sold legally here in the USA should be either inspected by the USDA or under their guidelines by the individual state. This program is paid for by us, the happy taxpayers.

Inspection is mandatory quality grading is voluntary!

Grading
After the meat is ‘inspected and passed’, the processor can have his meat graded. This is voluntary and done by a federal grader who has to be paid for by the processor. This process is strictly for extra quality and if it makes it into a higher grade the meat will also command a higher price.

I copied a quote from the above mentioned website as they wrote it so well:
“USDA grades are based on nationally uniform Federal standards of quality. No matter where or when a consumer purchases graded meat or poultry, it must have met the same grade criteria. The grade is stamped on the carcass or side of beef and is usually not visible on retail cuts. However, retail packages of beef, as well as poultry, will show the U.S. grade mark if they have been officially graded.
The grade symbol and wording are no longer copyrighted; however, according to the Truth in Labeling Law, it is illegal to mislead or misrepresent the shield or wording.”

Of the eight quality grades for beef only the top three, USDA Prime, USDA Choice and USDA Select, are usually graded and sold as primal cuts in the stores.

Quality Grades:


Prime grade is produced from young, well-fed beef cattle. It has abundant marbling and is generally sold in restaurants and hotels. Prime roasts
and steaks are excellent for dry-heat cooking (broiling, roasting, or grilling).

 

Choice grade is high quality, but has less marbling than Prime. Choice roasts and steaks from the loin and rib will be very tender, juicy, and flavorful and are, like Prime, suited to dry-heat cooking. Many of the less tender cuts, such as those from the rump, round, and blade chuck, can also be cooked with dry heat if not overcooked. Such cuts will be most tender if “braised” — roasted, or simmered with a small amount of liquid in a tightly covered pan.

Select grade is very uniform in quality and normally leaner than the higher grades. It is fairly tender, but, because it has less marbling, it may lack some of the juiciness and flavor of the higher grades. Only the tender cuts (loin, rib, sirloin) should be cooked with dry heat. Other cuts should be marinated before cooking or braised to obtain maximum tenderness and flavor.

Again the descriptions of the different grades are an excerpt from the official USDA website, this also includes the pictures and graphics used here, which, according to my knowledge, puts them in the public domain.

USDA Select used to be known as USDA Good and this definition was changed years ago. Going back to those times the marbleizing shown in the USDA Prime picture above would then have been considered a mid range USDA Choice and the USDA Select grading in the picture would never have received a USDA Good stamp, but we are told that we live healthier by this as our fat intake came down (lol).

Let’s figure this one out quickly. You own some cattle, you send them to the feeding lot, they get corn fed at a lot higher price than the grass they used to eat, you don’t feed them quite as much corn and get leaner beef, isn’t it natural to lobby to have the standards lowered just a little, to still get the desired USDA Choice grade, which will get you a higher price and let’s tell everybody, that we did it to keep our fellow citizens healthier. Yeah, another good one!

By the way it is not the cattle ranger which benefits from this, but the meat processors.

In the next post I will write about a few things to look for in the meat counter.

 

Food Safety and Safe Handling

What is food safety and safe handling all about and how to avoid cross contamination.

With all the horror stories you hear about nowadays most of us tend to be over cautious and actually afraid. So here I listed a few easy to follow basics, that should keep you and your family safe.

The four basic rules established by the FSIS (Food Safety and Inspection Service), the public health agency in the US Department of Agriculture (USDA), are

CLEAN

SEPARATE

COOK

CHILL

CLEAN:

Before you start and after handling food:
Wash your hands with warm water and soap.
To combat harmful bacteria wash cutting boards and counters with hot soapy water.
After you are done:Wash your cutting boards, countertops and all used utensils in hot soapy water and spray with a water-chlorine solution.

SEPARATE:

Use different cutting boards for meats and other ingredients. If you use multiple types of meat, like chicken and beef, cut the beef first and the chicken after if using the same cutting board as you do not want to cross contaminate your beef with possible salmonella from the chicken.
Vegetable should be cut and prepared on a separate cutting board, especially if they are to be eaten raw.
Use common sense to avoid cross contamination!

COOK:

Always cook your meats to the proper inside temperature!
For this you will need a meat thermometer!

CHILL:

Keep food out of the danger zone (between 40 and 140°F)
Keep Hot Food Hot & Cold Food Cold.

To sum up this article:
Keep your stuff clean, separate ingredients while preparing to avoid cross contamination, cook to the correct internal temperature and keep it safe during serving and storing.

We know that it is a shame to waste food, but always follow this simple rule:

When in doubt throw it out!
If it does not smell right, throw it out,
 if it was mishandled, throw it out,
 if it is contaminated, throw it out.

Just use common sense and logic.

 

I am not here to reinvent the wheel and write on for hours, so there is a, in my humble opinion, well done 27 page handbook ready for your download at the USDA site. Just click on the link below:

The Kitchen Companion

I really recommend to download and at least read it through, as this booklet goes into store labeling, expiration dates, food storage and anything you can think of on the subject!

 

This booklet should eliminate the majority of your questions and if you still have some more, the USDA seemed to have hired “Karen” to answer your food, safe handling and food safety questions, so if you need more answers just give her a shout at the link below!

Ask Karen at USDA.gov

 

 

Steak Tartare

Going back to the 1980’s in an episode of the then popular TV sitcom “The Facts of Life” the debonair character of Blair Warner was asked what Steak Tartare is, she answered: “A Whopper, hold the heat!” (At that time the Burger King jingle went: “Hold the pickles, hold the lettuce, special orders don’t upset us”).

Now that you have a solid definition of what Steak Tartare is let’s go a little more into it. The name is attributed to the tale that the Tatar /Tartar warriors of Genghis Khan’s army kept their daily rations of meat under their saddle, riding on it all day to tenderize it and then eating it raw. This can not be proven, but the legend is still told nowadays.

Steak Tartare or Tatar

The German name for this dish is “Tatar” and, as I found during my research, the German settlers in Pennsylvania supposedly introduced it here in the United States.

This post goes back to a Jeopardy question last week, where again the ingredient of beef tenderloin was listed as the meat, so looking online and in some of my cookbooks, there seems to be a large number of people writing about it with way too much money at their disposal.

Here are some questions:

  • Let us say you grind some meat at least one more time than hamburger, how tough will the meat be?
  • If you take meat and grind it would you really spend over $15 per pound?
  • You add a nice amount of raw onions, pepper, salt and serve other very salty sides with it, how much of a difference between the taste of tenderloin or round steak can your taste buds still detect?

Between you and me, I would rather use a beef tenderloin for Steak Diane, Beef Wellington, Chateaubriand or just wrap it with bacon and throw it on the grill!

During our time in the meat business we sold hundreds of pounds of “Hackfleisch zum Rohessen” (Ground meat to eat raw), we also prepared hundreds of pounds for private parties and never had a single complaint about the quality and taste. There was also never a complaint that the meat was tough. For a price of about $5 per pound, there is no way that any butcher or meat cutter in their right mind would use Filet Mignon. For goodness sake, it is just ground beef!

Now I agree, that the piece of meat has to be as lean as possible and for this you actually do not have to go into USDA Choice graded meat. A lean USDA Select Sirloin Tip, Bottom or Top Round, with little marbleizing, all fat, connective tissue and grizzle trimmed away is perfect for this dish. Also the highest standards of sanitation should be part of the process, as you have to be careful of cross contamination.

The meat should be ground at least three times, as quickly as possible, to keep it from warming up during the grinding process, as this would cut down the shelf life considerably.

The recipe calls for Meat, Pepper, Salt, Onions and an Egg Yolk. The onions should be chopped finely for this. Mix all five ingredients together, with salt and pepper to taste, remember you will put a salt and pepper shaker on the table, so don’t overdo it!

In our house we serve it with a buttered hard roll or a French baguette, you can also serve some capers and anchovies on the side.

If you believe in the rules and regulations governing your standing as a gourmet you will definitely not agree with me and I would like to suggest to keep on ordering your meats from the western steak companies. I am not a gourmet, I just love to eat good food and plenty of it.